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Q. Hi Bob, I am a single homeowner with little plumbing experience, and very little assistance in town. My back bathroom startet leaking out of the Tub Spout. I took apart the Spout and the single hot/cold faucet including the Esutcheon, and what I thought was the bonnet nut. Now there is a white plastic threaded ?ring? there that I am afraid to remove and can't figure out how to remove. So I cant get to the cartridge to see what's up. I am operating out of the Home Depot Home improvement 1-2-3 book. The fixtures are price Pfister and were installed in this new house ten + years ago. And I do not have the model #. The spout is a also a gate diverter. With this model you must turn the faucet on by pulling on the knob and turning left and right to get hot and cold. Then you push on the knob to shut it off. Kind of strange pushing and pulling on the pipes all the time. Anyway the front bathroom knob is so hard to push and pull and it does not regulate the temp very well either. The pipe that comes out that I removed the spout from is copper with no threads. I really would like to do this project myself (a little woman pride) but my back bath tub is full of dripping copper tubing and wet tools. At least I was smart enough to test one bathroom out before doing both at a time. Any help would be appreciated. I relate well to pictures, since I really don't know the plumbing lingo. HELLLLLLLLLP Please!!!! Connie A. Dear Connie, Okay here goes; Put the tub spout back on. That is not the problem. Go to the hardware store (like Home Depot would be good) and tell the salesperson that you have a Pfister, push pull shower valve, like you told me. Tell them you need a repair kit. You shouldn't need the model number. And also buy a small container (1/2 oz) of Silicone Waterproof Grease, to lubricate your faucet. You said "Now there is a white plastic threaded ?ring? there that I am afraid to remove and can't figure out how to remove. So I can't get to the cartridge to see what's up." It does screw out. While you're at the hardware, have them show you a similar valve, so you can see how the "guts" come a part. And by looking at the valve at the store you will see how to unscrew it. Then you will put all the new parts in from the repair kit you bought. Just carefully look at how everything is put together when you take it apart and just put it back the way it was. Be sure to close your tub drain, so you don't lose parts down the waste line. Now, the "Grease" part: As you are putting the faucet back together apply a light coat of grease to the exterior parts and some inside of the push/pull core. That will make it easy to push and pull. Now, Connie, take your time and also make notes if necessary as you take it a part so you will remember how to put it back. I know you can do it. And good for you for trying to do-it-yourself. Let me know how it goes. Thanks for asking, Bob Connie wrote back on January 03, 2003 Hey Bob, SUCCESS!!! Thank you so much for your help and advice. The point I mentioned about "not having help in town" was in regard to our Home Depot like stores, they would not even stop to listen to what I needed they just kept telling me to bring all the pieces in or the part number. It was a whole different thing when I took your email in and said this is what I want. After putting the entire hardware back together in my back bathroom (do I feel silly), I just finished putting the replacement valve in the front bathroom in 10 minutes and it, works also like a charm. Again, thank you -- Now I can add this to my list of can do's. What man wouldn't want me now? Ha Ha. Again, thank you and have a wonderful new year! Connie
Q.Ok, My husband installed a new Badger 5 garbage disposal in my sink and it leaks when the sink drains. It appears to be coming from the top of the seal under the sink. How do I fix it? Also when he installed the new disposal the dishwasher quit draining. The water is just stagnant at the bottom. Even if the washer is run the water doesn't seem to change level at the end. How do i fix this? Are they related? Thank you for your help.Tiffany A. Dear Tiffany, Please give your husband a big "atta boy." It's not easy to install a garbage disposal. And now he will have to re-install it. I'll answer your questions and then you'll know what to do when you reinstall: You said it leaks from the top of the seal: The top flange at the sink is the basket strainer. It needs to have plumbers putty under it ( between the flange and the sink). Use plumber's putty, you'll find it at the hardware store and it comes in a little cup like a yogurt cup. Knead a ball of putty like you would a piece of clay; rolling is between the palms of you hands to warm it. Roll it out into the shape of a snake about a half inch in diameter. Wrap the snake of putty around the drain hole in the sink. Press on the basket strainer and tighten the basin nut. You may have to help your husband to hold the strainer down, while he tightens the basin nut. Remove excess putty gently after tightening. Some putty may show, but that's okay, it'll disappear later. And you said the dish washer won't drain: There is a knock-out in the disposal where you hooked up the dishwasher to the disposal. Your husband didn't knock out the plug. Put your finger in there and you'll feel it. Using a screw driver and a hammer, tap inside the hole gently and remove the metal plug from the disposal. (make sure you remove it and throw it away, you don't want the metal plug to go into the disposal.) Hook it back up and the dishwasher will drain Rub each others backs; give hugs and have a happy holiday. Hope I helped. Bob
Q.I have a Hot Point washer, that leaks from the over flow tube. evberythink else works fine but an a large load it leaks from the overflow pipe, can you twell me how to find out why? Jim A. Jim, You say overflow tube. Do you mean the waste line that goes from the washer to the waste line in the wall? If so, you probably have a 1 1/2 inch waste line, instead of a 2" waste line. You can try to prevent the water from spilling by duct taping a rag to the hose to make it fit tighter. Be careful to secure the rag so that it doesn't go down the line and clog the drain. Hope I helped. Bob Jim wrote back: I MIGHT NOT BE CALLING IT THE RIGHT NAME. IT IS A TUBING THAT COMES OUT THE SIDE OF THE OUTER TUB, NOT THE TUB WITH THE HOLES IN IT. IT COMES DOWN THE LEFT SIDE BETWEEN THE OUTER TUB AND THE WASHER WALL. IT COMES OFF THE OUTER TUB AND GOES DOWN THE SIDE BUT DOES NOT ATTACH TO ANYTHING AT THE BOTTON. IT IS OPEN SO WHEN THE WATER GETS IN IT FOR WHAT EVER REASON IT LEAKS ON THE FLOOR. IT MIGHT BE A TUB OVER FLOW HOSE. I'M NOT SURE OF THE NAME. THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP SO FAR AND ANY OTHER INFO IN THE FUTURE. OH YA I'M NOT SURE IF I TOLD YOU IT IS A HOTPOINT WASHER Bob answered Jim: Call your appliance dealer. Your overflow problem is part of the washing machine, not a plumbing problem. Talk to the Hotpoint manufacturer, they will be able to tell you what to do. Thanks for asking Bob.
Q.When the kitchen faucet is turned off, after about 3 seconds the is a groaning sound heard in the walls. The sound does not occur while the water is running, only after the being shut off. This noise is also heard when turning off the water in a downstairs bathroom Thanks, Don A. Don, Probably it's nothing to worry about. I think your walls or pipes are not insulated enough, and therefore you can hear the pipes. All water pipes make noise when the water fills, moves around, and when there is air in the lines. I can hear the pipes in my un-insulated barn, even though the pipes are insulated. Bob
Q.We have 3 toilets in our house and the main bath upstairs will not keep water in the bowl. The bowl fills up when flushing but after a period of time when you return the bowl is empty. It doesn't appear to be leaking anywhere. What could be causing this? Marion A. Marion, My guess is that one of the lower level toilets is not vented and therefore siphoning the water out of the other upstairs toilet. Each toilet must have a vent. Thanks for asking, Bob
Q.The floor around our toilet is stained and water also leaks out onto the floor. My husband has replaced the wax ring twice. Each time, the problem seems to be fixed for about 2 weeks. Then, the water starts leaking out of the base of the toilet and there is a strong urine smell. My husband has also checked for cracks in the bowl itself, but he says it all looks fine. What else could the problem be? Lori A. Lori, Hairline cracks in toilets are hard to see and hard to find. The toilet could be leaking from the bolts between the tank and the bowl. Or somewhere else. I suggest you and your husband run the leak test! My instructions for finding toilet leaks are at the following link: Leak Also a similar question was asked early. Read this Q&A also:Similar QuestionThanks for asking, Bob
Q.I have a Kohler low flow toilet and it keeps running and the tank takes forever to fill up. I have checked everything and cant figure out what I should be fixing. We think that maybe it is the flush valve. Do you any any advice. Gina A. Gina, How to install a Fluid Master valve. Click on this link. Install Fluid Master Let me know if this was the problem. Thanks, Bob
Q.We are putting in a jet tub .We have heard they should be placed on a concrete pad. Is this true? Angela A. Angela, You should consult the manufacturer of you tub. They will know give you installation instructions. Each tub is different. Following the instructions they give you. Thanks for asking, Bob
Q.We were suspicious our toilet was leaking. We called the plumber, he removed it and put it back together, declaring that nothing was wrong. The smell in the bathroom became worse and the woodwork around the bottom of the walls began to look damp. We finally decided to pull the floor up and discovered the toilet was leaking in-between the floor and underlament. We replaced the wax ring and put it back together. It has leaked 3 times in two weeks. It appears fine and then suddenly there is water on the floor. It smells like an outhouse. What should we try next? Jena A. Jena, Are you sure it's the toliet leaking. Maybe the shower/bath water is spilling on the floor and flowing to the toilet? Bob Jena writes back: Implying that it is running on top of the linoleum? Or is it possible something is leaking in the floor from the drain system? There is no water on top of the linoleum. Water is somehow seeping through the floor - under the linoleum. Bob answers Jena, It must be the toilet flange. The toilet bolts (attaches) to the flange and the flange is glued (if it's ABS plastic pipe) to the waste line. I'm guessing the plumber may have forgotten to glue it. Or if you have an older home, the cast iron pipe and/or flange may have split (cracked.) A hair line crack is hard to see but it does happen. The leak is probably coming from the joint between the toilet flange and waste pipe. Take the toilet off and check the flange. Ugly job, but you can do it. Pull up on the flange to see if it's loose. Use a drop light or flash light to examine the pipe and flange... Good luck, I hope I'm helping, Bob
Q.Bob, recently, I had a tile floor installed in my bathroom. After installing the new toilet, it rocks from front to back. I tighten the nuts as tight as I dare and it still rocks. What is the fix? Thanks Jim M. Jim A. Jim, Has the toilet settled down by now? Some times it takes a little weight to get the bowl wax to fit. If not, the tile is probably uneven and you'll need to reinstall the toilet after leveling the floor. Hope I've helped, Bob
Q.We have replaced the whole faucet. The cold water pressure is fine, but the hot water only trickles out. it is fine everwhere else in the house? What could it be? What can we do? Jim A. Jim, First check to make sure that your supply tubing (flex-hose) from the hot water shut-off valve to your faucet is "kinked." Is it restricted in anyway?
If it's not, I want you to see if you are getting hot water through the shut-off valve. Sometimes the valve can get clogged with rust or particles. Disconnect the supply tubing on the hot water side. (SHUT-OFF both hot and cold water shut-off valves, first) Put the supply tubing into a can or bucket. Turn the hot water valve on and see how much water you get. If it only trickles, tap the valve lightly with a part of pliers, and turn the water off and on. You may be able to loosen and clear the particles. If not, take the valve off and either repair or replace it. If the water flow from the shut-off valve is good...then, there's something wrong with you faucet. Let me know if any of the above works, and if not what kind of a faucet you have. Single lever or what. Hope I've helped. Bob Jim wrote back September 25, 2000: We have checked everything coming out the wall and they are in working condition, still the pressure is weak on the hot water side.Jim Bob answers: Jim, There must be something wrong with the faucet; a defect. Or maybe you have accidently twisted the washer in the supply tubing, and it is limiting the flow. This is a mystery. Let me know. Bob
Q.we got a new hot water heater about a year ago and we put grey lines running from the heater. will this cause our water to stink? It just keeps getting worse and worse. Or could this have to do with maybe the presure tank.. I need help thank you shawnee shawnee A. Shawnee, What do you mean by gray lines. Are they galvanized steel pipes, or are they gray plastic pipe or what? Galvanized pipe could react to the chemicals in your water, which may cause it to stink. If you have plastic pipes they should be CPVC pipe. They are white in color. Are you on City water or well water? The source of your water may be the problem. The well water could stink. City water,too, sometimes. Tell me more, so I can help you more. Bob Shawnee wrote back on September 24, 2002: the lines are grey plastic pipe and we have well water. do you think the grey lines might be causing the problem... thanks again, shawnee A. Shawnee, I don't know about the gray lines. The plastic pipe I use for water piping is white in color, called "CPVC." The plumbing code in your area may be different. Ask at your local hardware store. They will know if the gray pipe is the right pipe to use. Well water can smell like rotten eggs when there is too much sulfur in the well. Does the water stink when you use only cold water. If so, it's probably the well water that stinks. Let me know.Bob Shawnee wrote back again on September 25, 2002: Our water stinks with the hot or cold but the outside water hoses do not have the same smell... it is clean good water. I am about to give up. I will have to check with the hardware like you suggested , thank you again
Q.I need a serios answer. I toilet tank does not completely fill up to the water line. We also have to hold the handle down until the toilet flushes completely. Somtimes flushing it twice. It doesn't seem have much pressure. Do I need a plumber? Eydie A. Eydie, First, you must have a full tank of water to get a good flush. Your toilet has a water fill valve (ballcock valve)which should have an adjustment on it. You can adjust it so that more water goes into your tank. If you have a "Fluid Master" fill valve the adjustment is on the valve itself. To Adjust the Fluid Master valve: There is an adjustment on the Fluid Master. At the float there is a v-clip on a rod. Squeeze the v-clip and you will be able to move the float down the rod. This will adjust it so the valve shuts the water off sooner. Moving it up the rod and the water flows longer. If you don't have a "Fluid Master", you can adjust the "Float Ball" which is a big ball that floats on the top of the water. You will be able to see it. You will gently bend the rod that the float ball is attached it. Gently using two hands, bend the rod up a little bit at a time until the water fills to the fill line. Here's a picture of the float ball: If this doesn't work, you may have dirt/rust in the valve or, the valve is work correctly. You may have to replace it. You can replace it with a Fluid Master. Let me know if you need more help. Bob
Q.What is the best way to clean a fiberglass jet tub? Dawn A. Dawn, It is best to check with the manufacturer of your tub. Bob
Q.My hot water heater makes bubbly, gurggerling, popping sounds when I open a faucet Patrick A. Hi Patrick, Similar questions have been asked. Please check these Q&A's to see if they help you: Question #35 and Question #30 Bob
Q.When I turn on the faucets in our home, a burst of air comes out before any water and this is accompanied by loud noise. What would be causing this, is it a problem, and what do I do to fix it? Thanks for your help. Jeff A. Jeff, There is air in your water lines. Let the water run at all faucets and hose bibs (outside faucets) for several minutes to get the air out of all the lines. (hot and cold) Also read what others have asked about air in water lines at Questions and AnswersBob
Q.WILL A P TRAP ELIMANATE SEPTIC ODOR IN DRAIN Billy A. Billy, The water in a p-trap will keep the sewer gases from entering the house. Your floor drain may have a p-trap, but the water in the trap may have evaporated. Try putting water in the drain more often. Bob
Q.We were suspicious our toilet was leaking. We called the plumber, he removed it and put it back together, declaring that nothing was wrong. The smell in the bathroom became worse and the woodwork around the bottom of the walls began to look damp. We finally decided to pull the floor up and discovered the toilet was leaking in-between the floor and underlament. We replaced the wax ring and put it back together. It has leaked 3 times in two weeks. It appears fine and then suddenly there is water on the floor. It smells like an outhouse. What should we try next? Jena A. Dear Jena, Are you sure it's the toliet leaking. Maybe the shower/bath water is spilling on the floor and flowing to the toilet? Bob Jena/Scott wrote back October 8, 2002 Implying that it is running on top of the linoleum? Or is it possible something is leaking in the floor from the drain system? There is no water on top of the linoleum. Water is somehow seeping through the floor - under the linoleum. Bob Answers: Dear Jena and Scott, It must be the toilet flange. The toilet bolts (attaches) to the flange and the flange is glued (if it's ABS plastic pipe) to the waste line. I'm guessing the plumber may have forgotten to glue it. Or if you have an older home, the cast iron pipe and/or flange may have split (cracked.) A hair line crack is hard to see but it does happen. The leak is probably coming from the joint between the toilet flange and waste pipe. Take the toilet off and check the flange. Ugly job, but you can do it. Pull up on the flange to see if it's loose. Use a drop light or flash light to examine the pipe and flange... Good luck, I hope I'm helping, Bob
Q.Last night I noticed there was air in my hot water. It seems to be not only in the shower but in the sinks as well. DO you know what the cause and solution is for this? Thanks ~ Ken A. Dear Ken, Run the hot water in the tub or shower until you get all the air out of the line. The reason you get air in the pipe could be caused by the water department . They could have repaired a water main; and air got in the line. Check with the city water dept. to see if that may be the case. If you're on well water, the water table may be low and the pump is picking up air and sending it into your house. Try running your garden hose to get all the air out. Hope this helps, Bob
Q.When flushing the toilet the bowl fills as it seems to empty slowly and noise in pipes in other bathroom when it does empty Richard A. Dear Richard, There is probably something stuck in the toilet trap. The noise you hear is probably that "something" rolling around. I remember visiting my mother-in-law, years ago and she wasn't using her second toilet because when she flushed, it would fill to the top (sometimes overflowing) and then slowly empty. I, of course fixed it! There was a small glass lid, (a cannister lid) stuck in the p-trap of the toilet. Here's what to do: First try using a plunger to clear the toilet. If that doesn't work borrow or rent a toilet auger. If this doesn't work you will have to remove the toilet and remove the toilet tank from the toilet bowl. And then, what you do is roll the toilet bowl in your yard. Roll it around, back and forth, this way and that and you will dislodge what ever is in there. Follow my instructions on how to remove and install a toilet at this link: How to install a toilet You will have to be on the internet to access the link.Good luck, Bob the Plumber
Q. Wish you could tell me where the leak is coming from in my son's bathtub. I expect to come home anyday and see the tub sitting in my family room. Think I had better call about that. Janis A. Dear Janis, Shower doors and shower curtains are notorious for leaking on to the floor and pooling in a low spot on the floor. Boys are notorious for drying-off outside of the shower/tub and dripping on the floor. (girls,too) The problem can cause the floor to rot-out, around the tub or low spot on the floor. If this is the problem, the shower door will need to be re-caulked, or taken off and re-sealed. Shower curtains can be sealed by using you hand and pressing against the shower wall before showering. In the meantime throw towels on the floor to absorb the water. Towels dry faster than rugs. If this isn't the problem, tell us more....it could be the toilet, basin...but check the shower first. Thanks for Asking, http://www.bobtheplumber.com
Q.My house does not have an outside faucet, and would liket to be about to hook a garden hose to the kitchen faucet to water outside flowers and plants. Are the ends of the hose and a faucet compatible? What other options do I have other than carrying buckets and buckets? Thanks,Anna A. Anna, Yes. You will need to buy an adapter from the hardware store. Tell the clerk what you want to do. Look at the spout on you faucet to see if the threads are inside the spout (female) or outside (male). It may take a couple tries to get the right one for your faucet. Make sure the hardware store will let you return it, if it doesn't fit. Another suggestion. I've seen a product, watering hose set-up, just for this purpose. I don't know who makes it. It's small tubing instead of a hose, and it's fits on the faucet. It's made specifically for watering house plants, but the hose may be long enough for you. Ask about it at the hardware. It would be easier than using a garden hose. Bob
Q.we have 2sinks in our bathroom upstaris, i thnk they are about 15-20yrs old. we bought new petastal sinks to replace the old ones. are we going to need any new plumbing accecories to put them in? im not sure as the directions didnt tell if we ned anything or not and we just want to make sure before we start. sheri A. Hi Sheri, You may have everything you need...the accessories may be packaged with your pedestal sinks. Your existing waste line should be okay, if the waste inlet is about 16-18" (inches) above the flow. The water shut-off should be okay, but you may need new and longer, flex supply lines. The pop-up waste should have come with your new faucet. I suggest you install one pedestal at a time. That way you'll have the other one working so you can brush your teeth, etc. When I install new sinks, there is always some thing missing that I have to go to the hardware store to get. Install the first sink and then you'll know what you need. Good luck, and let me know if you have any problems. Bob
Q. My electric hot water heater growls intermittently. It seems to do it most in the morning, but it growls from time to time throughout the day. What could be the problem? Josh A. Josh, Josh, All hot water heaters growl a little bit,when cold water enters the hot tank; expansion and contraction. If your tank growls a lot it could be a couple of things. It could be that your hot water heater is too hot. What temperature do you have it set at? Is it electric or gas? Or, worst scenario, the anti-siphon tube on the cold water intake inside the tank (which you can't see), has broken or rusted-off. How old is your tank? Let me know if I can help more. Bob
Q. WE HAVE JUST RECENTLY MOVED INTO A NEW HOME THAT SEEMS TO HAVE AN ODOR AFTER WE WASH A LOAD OF CLOTHES. I DON'T THINK THAT THE BUILDER INSTALLED A DRAIN TRAP. HOWEVER, BEING OUT OF THE CITY LIMITS, THIS HOUSE DIDN'T HAVE TO PASS ANY TYPE OF INSPECTION. HOW CAN I IDENTIFY A TRAP TO THE WASHER? LISA A. Lisa, New homes usually have a year warrantee. You may be able to call the builder in, to resolve the problem. The p-trap to the washer is in the wall behind the sheetrock. Remove the washer hose to the waste in the wall and ,using your nose, sniff into the drain (waste pipe). If it stinks down there you probably don't have a trap, since the water in the trap prevents sewer gases from entering the house. Check out all other possible sources for the odor, before you open the wall to see if a trap was installed. It could also be that the vent was never extended out side the building. Read a similar question and answer at:www.bobtheplumber.com/qa1.htm#Q16 Let me know if I can help you more, Bob
Q. Somebody put `lumping-type'cat litter down the floor drain . The outlet is cast iron set in concrete floor. Can't get relief through a snake. How to remove the cat litter? Like using muriatic acid? A. Russ, Do you have a shop-vac? That's a vacuum that will pick up dry and wet matter. If you do, remove the strainer that covers the drain, and put the hose from the vacuum down the drain to try to vacuum the litter out. You could also try to flush it out with a garden hose. See my instructions at:www.bobtheplumber.com/qa1.htm#Q03 If none of the above works, you'll have to call "rooter router." Thanks for Asking, Bob Are you sure it's the toliet leaking. Maybe the shower/bath water is spilling on the floor and flowing to the toilet?Thanks. It was beyond the shopvac capability. Today the garden hose sealed with wet washrag wrapped in plastic did the job! Big whoosh and it was GONE! (Now, lessons in proper handling of cat litter. (:>)) |
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Q. Bob I am looking for a washing machine with a lint filter that I can clean. Our old washer took it's final breath and I can not find another in this area with a removable filter. The companies tell me that the internal ones work, but they don't live here. My sister has one with the filter somewhere inside the machine and if she needs the dog hair removed from some piece of bedding, she would use my old washer with the removable filter. Her inside no longer worked and the same with my uncle's washer. So is there any one still making those kinds of washing machines. Thanks Pen A. Pen, My washing machine has a plastic round filter that sits on the top of the agitator. Is that what you mean when you say filter? My machine is 11 years old. I am not an expert on appliances and am not aware of what the manufacturers are making today. I suggest you buy a used one, like your old one, but not as old. Check the newspaper ads. Hope I helped, thanks for asking, Bob
Q. I have a problem with water hammer. The cistern has an old Portsmouth valve, and this makes a loud noise when the cistern fills. I have a DIY book, and this advises replacing the valve with an equilibrium valve. Would it be possible to replace the full assembly with a modern plastic diaphragm valve? Paul A. Hi Paul, Your email address tells me that you are writing from The United Kingdom; or does .uk stand for UnKnown? Yes, you can replace the old valve with a plastic valve. The valve in the pipe line that fills the cistern (or water storage tank) should be a Ball Check Valve. The purpose of a ball check valve is to stop the reverse flow of water; so the water doesn't flow backward to the source. Do not use a swing check valve as that will cause "water hammer" (loud noises and hammering on the pipes.) The equilibrium valve that you mentioned is also called a Balance valve. You do not want to balance/or restrict the water going into your tank (cistern.) Always have the valve to your tank fully open. There are situations in which balance valves are used to stop water hammering, but not in your situation. Note: When connecting a plastic valve to metal/steel pipe the plastic valve should have male threads screwing into female steel pipe threads. You may have to put a steel coupling or union on to the pipe end to make this transition. Plastic female fittings have been known to split (break) when connected to male fittings on steel pipe. Let me know Paul, how you made out. And if you have anymore questions, Ask Bob the Plumber
Q. I've recently finished a kitchen remodel and bought a deeper basin sink. I've installed the previously used disposal. The problem is the drain on the unit is lower than the drain on the wall. Will this prevent the sink or disposal from draining? The disposal unit is an Insinkerator Badger 5. Is there a unit with a shorter profile? Will I have to relocate the drain in the wall, or should I just "dispose" with the notion of installing the unit in the new kitchen. Thanks for any information you can provide. Kris A. Dear Kris, Hi Kris, You are right, you will have trouble with the sink or disposal draining. The invert of the waste on the disposal must be higher than the invert on the san-tee (the waste in the wall.) Therefore, you must lower the san-tee in the wall. Using plastic pipe fittings and "no-hub" bands, it's not a major job. Otherwise, dispose of the disposal! Let me know if you want to open the wall and change the waste pipe. I'll tell you how. Bob "Kris wrote back August 2, 2002" Thanks for the info...we've disposed of the disposal. At least for now! Thanks again...Kris Q. Bob, Do you recommend using plumbers putty or silicone for the seal (where the drain basket is) at the base of the sink? I've been told both...but not from someone who's in the profession. Thanks again...Kris A. Dear Kris, Use plumber's putty. Knead a ball of putty like you would a piece of clay; rolling is between the palms of you hands to warm it. Roll it out into the shape of a snake about a half inch in diameter. Wrap the snake of putty around the drain hole in the sink. Press on the basket strainer and tighten the basin nut. Remove excess putty gently after tightening. Some putty may show, but that's okay, it'll disappear later. Bob Kris wrote back August 3,2002 Thanks again. Just finished...no leaks. Appreciate the advise. Kris
Q. Bob, My hot water service is situated in my roof. The overflow is continuously dripping. I thought it may have been because the thermostat was set too high and it was boiling over but since turning the thermostat down it is dripping more. Im guessing about 5-6 bucketfulls per day. Can you help? Signed: Paul A. Dear Paul, I just answered a similar question not to long ago. The Pressure Relief Valve on your water tank needs to be replaced. Click on this link, while on line, to see how to do it: and to see the other person's similar question click here: Bob
Q. I have tried everything to clean my fiberglass tub and nothing works. Can you please tell me what i can do to clean it? Thanks bunches~! Marlee A. Dear Marlee, Many people ask me that same question....I just tell them to ask the manufacturer of the fiberglass tub. But I do know that there are different "grades" of fiberglass tubs and that some do not have a heavy enough glaze (or shiny finish) to make cleaning easy. I can make a couple of suggestions: #1 vinegar will dissolve some soap and mineral deposits....try rinsing the tub with vinegar. #2. There's a product call "Gel-Gloss" made by TR Industries, that will clean and polish fiberglass. Sadly, it takes a lot of elbow grease. You need to apply, let it dry, then rub it to polish. Let me know if you discover a great way to clean and keep clean a fiberglass tub. Sorry, I couldn't help more, Bob.
Q. why dose my overflow in my main water tank keep leaking.it just starts for no reason.it can be ok for a few days then might go two times in one day.sometimes it happens whenthe washing machine gose on.i hope you can help ask the overflow is above my back door. thank for your help From:Richard A. Richard, Dear Richard, The overflow leaks because the spring tenson in the Pressure Relief Valve (PRV) is weakening. You need to replace the PRV. A new one cost about $12.00. If you need to hire a plumber, it should cost 1-4 hours labor plus the 12 bucks. You can do it yourself. I'll show you how.Click on this link: How to replace a PRV If it looks too hard, call a plumber. It can be tricky hooking up that overflow pipe. I hope I was able to help you. Let me know! Bob the Plumber
Q. I want to be able to support the bottom of the fiberglass tub but am unsure how to do it. Ideas so far have been to use Fixall or plaster-of-paris in a wooden "fence" before setting the tub in the alcove. Your thoughts?, Pat A. Pat, I think you should check with the manufacturer of your fiberglass tub. They will know how to best handle your situation. You don't want to do anything that would void your warrantee on your tub, so better check with them. Good Luck, Bob
Q. Bob, We bought a new washer thinking the rust spots on our clothes had to do with chips in the washer "bowl" and the clothes sitting on these rusty areas. The washer is less than 6 mo old and we have had more rust than ever. The rust stains are sporadic and various sizes. Could they be coming from a drain pipe(hooked to the washer) or the hot water heater? Help! I am over it!!! It's very annoying to have a new washer and still this problem.... thanks so much in advance for any asst. you can give me.(it may save my marriage, too....HA) A. Carol, Tell your husband to hang in there...the marriage can be saved. Rust on clothing does happen for several reasons. Try flushing your hot water tank, as you suggested. Sediment in the tank can go to the washing machine. Click on this link, while on line to see how to clean the hot water tank. http://www.bobtheplumber.com/qa1.htm#Q18 Are you on a well, or city water? If you're on a well, then you may need a filter. And, for all those rusty clothes, try to find a product called "Rust-out"...Ace Hardware carries it in our town, and so does Bi-mart. I don't know where you are, but if you can find "Rust-out" follow the instructions and you can get the rust out of your clothes and clean the rust from your new washer. Let me know if flushing the sediment from your hot water tank works. If not, we can figure something else. By the way, my wife and I had the same problem a while back, and we solved it, but it may be time for us to flush the hot water tank before it happens again. Thanks for asking, Bob Carol wrote back June 22, 2002 Q. Bob- Thanks for the advice.... Will do. Will try the hot water tank flush.... (or rather the engineer half will.....ha) We have city water and a water softener. We even tried the rust formula for water softeners. (no go...) I am familiar with the rust remover products you speak of. I have a "Mary Ellen" brand product that works great but I haven't been able to find it anywhere!!! Will have to try yours if this problem doesn't clear up and I run out of Mary Ellen. Thanks so much for your assistance. Will get back to you if it does or doesn't help. Have a great day and thanks again!! Carol Adams
Q. hi bob, could you tell me exactly step by step , how to drain my hot water heater? when i turn on my hot water for a bath rusty water and small sediment comes out? do i have to turn the gas off to drain? do i atach a hose to the spout at the bottom of the heater? thanks a lot for your help... maria A. Hi Maria, First turn the gas to "pilot."(For those that have an electric tank, shut-off your breaker to the tank, or remove the fuse.) Next shut-off the cold water valve coming in to the top of your tank. (Cold water is coded blue and hot water is coded red.) Next, attach a hose to the spout at the bottom of the tank, and run the hose either outside, or to a floor drain. Open the nearest hot water faucet, perhaps at your laundry tray. This will let the air into the hot water tank so that the water can flow out. Drain the tank. When the tank is drained (this may take 15 minutes or more) open the cold water valve at the top of the tank to let fresh water in. Leave the hose connected so you can flush the tank for a few minutes. Then shut the spout at the bottom and disconnect your hose. Leave that nearest hot water faucet open until you get water through it. That way you will be letting the air out of the line. You can now turn the gas back on the heating position. Go around to all your faucets and turn them on briefly to let air out of the line. It may take 3-4 hours before you'll have hot water. You are right to suspect that the particles coming out of the faucets are from the hot water tank. Sediment does collect at the bottom of the tank and should be flushed once a year. Thanks for asking, Bob
Q. Hey Bob, Last year we had a new Fluidmaster put into our toilet along with a new flapper. I adjusted the water level on the fluid master, because the water kept running down the overflow tube and the water level was just as high as the overflow tube. Now my problem is that after I flushed the toilet with this new water level, there is no water coming out of the overfill valve to fill the tank. What can I do to make the water come into the tank, so we can flush? Please help ASAP! Thank you, Nancy A. Dear Nancy, After readjusting the water level, did you remember to hook the overflow "fill" tube, back into the overflow pipe that goes to your toilet bowl. Click on this link to see a picture of the fluidmaster:fluidmaster Let me know if this solved the problem. NOTE: the water level should be adjusted to one inch (1") below the top of the overflow pipe. Thanks for asking, Bob the Plumber "Nancy wrote back May 12, 2002" Bob, Thanks for answering, yes all was in place, but in the meantime, we installed a brand new Fluidmaster and now all is well in toiletland. Thanks for the info about 1" below the overflow pipe, this is very beneficial. Thank you again. Nancy
Q. I have a bad odor in my half bath. It smells similar to sewer gas. My sink drain trap is full of water. My toilet base seems ok. Any suggestion? Steve A. Dear Steve, I've been called in to many houses and commercial building to find the source of bad odors, that smelled like sewer. I've found rotten potatoes under a kitchen sink; a decomposing leftover sandwich in the pocket of a jacket; a mildewed dirty wash cloth in the basin cabinet; etc. etc. Look around for similar things in your 1/2 bath. There could even be something rotting in your medicine cabinet. If you have an exhaust fan in the bathroom, there could be a dead bird or rodent in the exhaust line. Check to see if you have a "bird screen" on the louvered outlet. The outlet for the exhaust is either on the roof or an outside wall. A wire mesh (bird screen) covers the exhaust line so birds can't enter. The worst scenario is that the sewer line is leaking or broken under the toilet. Check under the house in the crawl space or basement. You were right to consider the p-trap, since the water in the p-trap prevents the sewer gases from entering the building. Do you have a floor drain in the bathroom? Floor drains also has a p-trap and sometimes the water in the trap evaporates. Hope you find it...if not I hope you have a clothespin for your nose. Let me know. Bob the plumber "Steve wrote back May 16, 2002" Bob, I recently e-mailed you about a bad odor in my half bath. You responded with some useful tips. I have tried everything you suggested. Heres some more information. My house is about 4 years old. I have a full basement (no leaks seen under the bathroom from in the basement). A friend of mine states this is probably a ventilation problem. I notice when I flush my toilets (4 total), a big bubble comes out from a small opening under the water line. Is this sewer gas? can anything be done about? Thanks for your help!!! P.S.-- One of my floor drains in my basement backed up. I had it snaked out, and the plumber said he could not find anything wrong. Could this be related?? Steve. Dear Steve, I received your last email message. I thought of something else. Maybe, just maybe, the vent from your half-bath was never connected to the main vent that vents through the roof. Or it, itself doesn't vent through the roof. waste lines (sewer lines) go down on all fixtures, but each fixture (toilet,sink,etc) has a vent pipe that goes up through the roof, in order to vent the sewer gases. Maybe the plumber forgot to tie that vent into another vent or to vent it by itself through the roof. So Steve, go up into the attic and look to see if there's a black ABS pipe over the area of your half-bath, that "goes no-where." What I'm suggesting is a long shot, but if the vent pipe is not vented through the roof you can SMELL it. Let me know, if this is the case, I can tell you how to fix it. Thanks for asking: bobtheplumber.com
Q. ever time we flush to toilet it keeps running over from the bowl. nobody has flushed anything funny down there. and it just keeps flooding the bathroom. i have tried just about everything and nothing has worked do i have to call a plumber in? sheri A. Hi Sheri, It sounds like you either have a plugged sewer line or there "is" something funny that someone has accidentally flushed down the toilet. Instead of calling the plumber, I suggest you call "roto rooter" or a similar drain cleaning company. You'll find them in the yellow pages of your phone book. They will clean out the sewer line, and if necessary remove your toilet; roll it around and remove that little something....(pencil, pen, toothbrush, bottle cap, child's toy) that may have gotten stuck in the toilet's p-trap. Meanwhile, don't flush the toilet. Just do #1's. No #2's. Thanks for asking,Bob
Q. how exactly does a flushometer operate? what is the exact function of each component from the handle to the closing of the valve?? duval b. A. Your question sounds like you're getting ready to take a plumber's test. Yes, I can fill you in on the whole story about how flush-o-meter valves works. But I think you should check you study manual first, and if you can't figure it out, I'll help you. Let me know if you need some help. Bob Duval wrote back: hey thanks for the reply you are however way off on my purpose. i am actually a university student completing a final year project. if you can still asist me on the operation of the flushometer i would be thankful. thank you! Dear Duval, Received your last reply...just been busy here in town with local jobs. I'll answer you soon. Hope you don't graduate before I get back at ya! bob :)
Q. How can I increase the water pressure coming from the shower?
Connie H. A. Dear Connie, I'm guessing that the shower head is plugged. You can unscrew the shower
head, BUT do not turn the shower arm. That's the chrome angled pipe that
comes out of the wall. You don't want to move the shower arm, that might
cause a leak behind the wall. So hold onto the shower arm so it doesn't move and unscrew
(counter-clock-wise) the shower head using a crescent wrench or pliers. Once you get the shower head removed, you will be removing the front section
of the shower head, also by unscrewing it. But do it on a table, not over
the shower/tub, or a sink. You may lose the parts. Lay a towel on the table and put the shower head on the towel. Now, remove
(unscrew) the front spray section of the shower head. Watch closely how the
couple of parts come apart. Clean all the parts; tap
them on the table to get the sediment and particles out. You may want to
also wash them. Put all the parts back as you found them and prepare to put
the shower head back on the shower arm. In order to screw the shower head back on to the shower arm you'll need
"Teflon Tape" It looks like scotch tape, but it's white, and you can find it
at your local hardware store. You will wrap the Teflon tape around the male
threads on the shower arm. Wrap it around the threads 3-4 times Going
Clockwise. Then install your cleaned shower head, also going clockwise.
Tighten it until it is snug. Turn on the water to test it, if it leaks
tighten it more. If that doesn't work, then maybe you'll need a new shower head. And after
all this, I know you'll know how to install the new one. Thanks for asking, Bob "Connie wrote back on April 28, 2002" While we had the shower head off, I decided to go ahead and replace it. The water pressure is still low. Any other suggestions as to how to make the water come out faster? (note: 1. There is only one knob to turn the water on, move to cold or hot. 2. The shower is separate from the tub. The pressure in the tub faucet is high.) Thanks, Connie H. Sorry So long Connie, (May 7, 2002) I hope you have resolved the shower head low pressure problem by now. But in case you haven't I thought of something else I should have mentioned. With the new plumbing codes which are directed at conserving water, they now put "water restrictors" in shower valves. Perhaps that is why the pressure isn't what you expect it to be. The "water restrictor" is a small washer-like disc in the shower head,( at the point of water entry), that has a tiny hole in it. That tiny hole will restrict how much water and water pressure that you get out of the shower head. Hope I've helped, but thanks for asking. "Connie wrote back on May 24, 2002" This solved the problem! You are great!!! Thank you.Connie
Q. Hi Bob, I have a 1986 made in Mansfield toilet (other than that there is no manufacturing info without unbolting the tank, I guess). Anyway, it has a floating-cup ballcock and all of a sudden it is having an amazing problem filling and the pressure upon flushing is dramatically reduced. We have partial cast iron piping and partial PVC under the house. Any ideas on what may be going on? All valves and seals seem to be working and unobstucted but the flow in from the top of the inlet pipe appears to be spitting and sputtering. Please help, we don't want to poop in the woods, there are too many neighbors! Thanks, John N. A. John, There are two things: #1 I want you to make sure you are getting sufficient water to the toilet; and if not #2 then, perhaps you'll want to replace the ballcock valve. It may have rust and/or particles in it and it's easier to replace than to repair. To check the water supply to the toilet do the follow: Shut off the main water supply coming into your house. If you don't have a main shut-off to the house, you'll have to shut it off at the meter, ( that's normally out by the road if you're on city water.) Once the water is shut off to your house, remove the core from the water shut-off valve at the toilet. That's the valve about 6" above the floor and the supply tubing goes to the bottom of your toilet tank. Remove the tubing at the valve to the tank using a crescent wrench or pliers. Then, unscrew the packing nut on the shut-off valve. That's the nut closest to the handle of the shut-off valve. Remove the core, it will come out when you unscrew the packing nut. Now, get a coffee can or a small bucket that will fit under the shut-off valve. Then, have a partner turn on the main water supply, Very Slowly. You want to see if you're getting sufficient water to the toilet. If the flow of water is good, "lots of water coming out of pipe and valve, YELL to your partner to shut the water off before you flood the place! Then, reinstall the core to the valve and your supply tubing to your tank. Your water supply to the toilet is good, but the ballcock is plugged. Buy a new one and replace it. If the water line is plugged, you can try banging on it to loosen the particles and clean out the particles, but eventually you'll have to replace that part of the water line. Hope this helps! Thanks for asking, Bob "John wrote back May 10, 2002 Bob, I am very sorry for not responding sooner. Your information was a great help but it was quite an adventure actually getting it all to work right. Once I took the old ballcock valve out the corroded seal didn't seem to work quite as well anymore. The problem was compounded by a lack of threads on the 1940's vintage (vertical) supply line. Half a roll of teflon tape and a lot of screaming later the leaking has stopped...for now. I will eventually have to replace the piping (and a joist under the toilet) but that is for another day! Thanks again. John PS What do you know about water filtration units? Atta Boy John, You did it. Just imagine how much money you saved by not having to hire a plumber. Plumbers have to do the same things that you did, and sometimes we get a "call back" because it's still leaking or isn't working quite right. Good for you! As for water filtration units: A) What do you want to filter from your water? B) Are you on a well, or on city water? Let me know. Hat's off to you, Bob the plumber
Q. THE WATER LOADS AND SWIRLS DOWN AND DRAINS . INFACT WE TOOK A HOSE AND SUPPLIED A LOT OF WATER . BUT THERE IS NO FLUSHING ACTION. NOT PLUGGED . IDEAS? WE ARE ON A WELL WITH LOTS OF BACTERIA GROWTH. DAGMAR A. Dear DAGMAR, There are toilets that are very quiet. My questions to you are: does the "matter" go down the toilet drain without any problem? and what do you mean by "no flushing action?" Tell me more, I don't understand the problem. Thanks, Bob
Ann A. Dear Ann, I haven't install any new American Standard toilets, lately. Most new toilets are designed for water savings, so this may just be the way it flushes. Contact a local American Stardard Representative and ask them. Look in the Yellow pages under Plumbing Fixture Wholesale suppliers. Sorry I couldn't help more, but thanks for asking, bobtheplumber. Q. Hello Bob....I have a problem with my toilet. It sits crooked (lopsided) on the floor. It dosen't leak or cause any kind of problems, it just looks awful, and isn't easy to sit on!! I am wanting to fix this problem myself, if that is possible. If you have any tips on what I could do, or where I could begin...I would love to hear from you. Thank You!! Kat A. Dear Kat, It sounds like you have a problem with the floor being level. If you're handy with tools you can fix it. The floor may have dry rot and you'll need to replace the plywood under the toilet. I can't tell you much with out seeing the floor and toilet. Put a level on your floor to see if it is level. If your floor is level and sound, than maybe the toilet wasn't installed correctly. You may want to take it off and see if you can do a better job. Read my section on removing and reinstalling a toilet at:How to install a toilet. If I can help more, let me know. Bob the Plumber
Q. Bob, How do we change a s-trap and gasket in the kitchen sink? Barb or Scott. A. Dear Scott and Barb,
Why do you want to change the S-trap. Is it leaking? Has the pipe rotted
out? If you have a leak under your sink it could be leaking from: But, if it's your S-trap here is: "How to Replace a S-trap" There are 3 slip-nuts with rubber rings. One slip-nut is at the floor where
it connects at the waste pipe; one in the center of the S-part; and another
one that connects to the sink tail piece. The size of your kitchen sink S-trap is an inch and a half (1 1/2".) Go to the hardware store and buy a new 1 1/2" S-trap. It should come in a
package with 3 new slip- nuts, with rubber rings and 2 pipe parts that make
the S-trap.
Remove the old trap and install the new one. Notice how the old one was
installed and copy it. Screw on all 3 slip-nuts using your hand and then,
tighten them using a pair of "channel locks," (adjustable pliers.) Tighten all the slip-nuts until they don't leak.
Well, you may ask, how tight is that? Here's how to tighten the slip nuts: Once you have tighten them by hand, then again with the adjustable pliers,
fill the sink with water using the stopper. Then, let the water out. Crawl
back under the sink and look for leaks.Tighten each slip-nut until it doesn't leak. It's that simple. This may take
several try's. Fill the sink, pull the plug, check for leaks,and tighten
again. Hope this helps. In the meantime, you can always use "duct tape!" ***Note: In some states, (I don't know where you live,) S-traps are no
longer allowed. New code requires P-traps. You may need to change that
S-trap when or if you remodel the kitchen. Thanks for Asking Bob the Plumber Q. Bob,
I'm a
carpenter not a plumber. I had a friend install a
new Kohler 1.6 gallon toilet last year with what appears
to be simple plastic fluidmaster internal parts.
The bowl fills up and keeps on running. I just
don't see any adjustments on the riser fill pipe,
float or anywhere for that matter. The
flapper seals ok. Please help.
Cindi, S.Car. A. Hi Cindi, There is an adjustment on
the Fluid Master. At the float ball there is a v-clip on
a rod. Squeeze the v-clip and you will be able to
move the float down the rod. This will adjust it so
the valve shuts the water off sooner. This will solve the
problem if the water is running, and overflowing into the
overflow tube. Now, Cindi, if this
doesn't work I want to show you how to double check the
flapper valve... see Flapper Test Your flapper may be okay, like you said, but this is a good test to see why the water keeps running. Attached is a picture of the v-clip, on the fluid master. Let me know if this works, or if you have any problems. Happy New Year and Thanks for asking, bob the plumber Hey Bob, It sounded like a simple fix. I did exactly like you said but the water keeps running. It appears the valve may be bad. I even tried moving the float arm up manually but the water never shuts off. The only thing I noticed out of the ordinary was the white neoprene housing that holds the gray arm in place is cracked on one side. But I would think when I manually move the float arm up as far as it will go, the water would shut off. Is it time for the Rotor Rooter Man? Cindi Cindi, Yes, the Fluid Master valve will have to be replaced. No, you don't have to call a plumber. You can do it, yourself. Carpenters and plumbers are closely related, believe me, I know. I married a carpenter.Go to your local hardware store and buy a new Fluid Master. And I'll tell you how to do it. If this is your only toilet, don't worry about not being able to use it. Once the water is shut off, and you're making repairs, you can still use the toilet, and flush it by pouring a bucket of water into the bowl. Next email:How to install a Fluidmaster. Bob
Q. Hi Bob, It appears that I need to replace the whole toilet because this plunder-like value appears to be part of the toilet tank design. Pls advise. Tommy, N.J. A. Hi Tommy, The "plunger-like apparatus" is called a toilet flush valve. You can replace those parts. The hardware store will have a packaged deal that includes the rods and the ball. Look at how the old one is installed and just copy it. You will have to bend the top rod to fit it into your triplever. Try one bend. If the toilet doesn't flush properly, straighten the rod and bend it again. It takes a few adjustments to get it just right. Then again, you may have a different toilet and a different situation. Not all toilets are made equally. Let me know if this doesn't work....I'll tell you more. Thanks for Asking, Bob the Plumber
Q. I just
noticed several hairline crack in the bottom of my
plexiglass/plastic bathtub. Can you recommend a
product to do the repair or is replacement the only
option? Thanks, JCL A. Dear John, You probably have a fiberglass bathtub. There are companies that repair/refinish fiberglass tubs and shower units. I suggest you get an estimate from them, check the yellow pages. In the meantime, you can use a product like "Gel-Gloss" which will simply clean and SEAL the tub. That way you will be preserving the tub...buying some time...before you decide to repair or replace the tub. You can find Gel-gloss at most hardware stores. (Look under bathroom cleaning products) Don't forget to use a rubber mat on the bottom of the tub so you don't slip and fall. I suggest you get some estimates on repairing the tub, but also, look at your bathroom. Maybe it's time for a total remodel. If you decide to remodel and replace the tub, make sure you get a good tub with a warrantee. Fiberglass tubs don't always get hairline cracks. Thanks for Asking, Bob the Plumber
Q.Dear Bob, A.Hi, This is Bob the Plumber. I hope you aren't getting seasick on the wobbly toilet. I'll help you fix it. The first thing I'd recommend is try to tighten the bolts: There are two bolts with nuts, holding the toilet bowl down to the floor. They are on each side of the toilet. If there are decorative plastic caps on the bolts, just pop them off with a screwdriver. Try to tighten the nuts, little by little, going back and forth, from one nut to the other. Don't tighten them too much or you might crack the bowl. If the bolts are broken or you can't tighten them, the toilet will have to be removed, inorder to replace the bolts. See Removing and Installing a Toilet. A couple weeks ago, my wife and I went on a short trip. We stayed 3 nights in 3 different motels. All three motels had toilets that wobbled. I didn't have my tools with me...I would have tried to tighten them. Email me, if you should have any trouble. Bob
Q. Hey Bob, I work at a restaurant in the Lincoln City area and in the restrooms there are wall-hung toilets and the flush handle is on the top of the toilet. One of the toilets keeps running. How do I stop it? It doesn't run all the time, but sometimes it runs after someone flushes it and I have to flush it several times and tap on it to make it stop running. I'd appreciate your help. Ben, from Lincoln City, OR A. Hi Ben, That's a good question!
There are a couple of things that could happen to the
flush-o- Solution: Clean it or replace the diaphragm What to do: 1. First, shut-off the water valve. Here's how: Remove the cap. The slotted shut-off is inside the cap. The water valve is an angle stop that's tied to diaphragm body. You'll use a screwdriver to turn it off. After you have turned it off, trip the trip-lever to make sure the water is shut-off. 2. Remove the cover that's on top of the valve, and you will see the diaphragm. It's round, black rubber/vinyl, and about 3" diameter. The diaphragm will come right out; you just left it up. Inspect it to see if there's dirt in side, or on it, if so, clean it out and reinstall. Now, if it's worn-out it'll be cracked or mushy and if you rub on it with your fingers, it'll leave your fingers black. Replace it. You'll probably be able to get a new one at the hardware store, or they will order one for you. Buy an extra one, in case you need it for another toilet. Let me know if you have any trouble. Bob the Plumber
Q. We have one (a plumbing question)now in the basement ...I told Bill to hire someone to fix the line that drains my washer water....it overflows when I use any of the slower gentle cycles.....and makes a mess and ruins the dry wall. I have just lived with it...but now that we are selling our house....I think they are going to ask what's going on....It is draining way up high over the washer where the lines are above .....a bigger job to change than we want to get into now....I've put up with it for ten years!! Not a question you can ask on here...that's for sure!! Good luck with the site.....Sandy, from Poulsbo, WA. A. Dear Sandy and Bill, I suggest that you have "Rooter Router" run a snake down through the drainpipe. There is a p-trap behind the wall. There could be a build up of rust (from the pipes) or lint in the p-trap that could be blocking the line. A trick that you and Bill could try is to blow it out. (No joke!) Blow out your clogged line using water pressure.
But maybe, you will be able to flush the line using the water pressure. The worst scenario is that you will have to change the waste pipe in the wall. In the olden days, the waste lines for washing machines were 1 1/2". Now a-days, code requires 2" lines to accommodate the new washing machines with fast discharging pumps. Below is a drawing of how it should be roughed-in. One other thing, if you do call Rooter Router have them clean the other drains, like the shower, tub, basins, and kitchen sink. Then all the drains will be working well when you show/sell your house.
March 14, 2001 Q. Hey Bob, I want to know if there is a way to increase the pressure on the toilet in order to increase the flush power? Marleen, Otis, Or. A. Dear Marleen, Maybe you're eating too much roughage and your stools are floating instead of flushing. The newer water-saving toilets only use 1.6 gallons of water to flush, instead of the 4-5 gallons as in older toilets. Many people complain about the flush not flushing with the new toilets. The only solution is to keep flushing. But I happen to know your toilet personally and know that in your case, the old existing waste line was not roughed-in correctly, and is causing a restriction in the line. The waste line needs to be cut out and redone. This is not an easy job with that old cast iron piping. In the mean time, I suggest you poop in the woods. Bob
March 13, 2001 Q: So
Bob, when are you driving to visit Linda, from Emory, TX A: Dear Linda, We would really like to come visit you and Ron, but right now I'm helping the County install a new water service. See Current Projects. And now that I'm on the World Wide Web, I have all these questions to answer. We'll get down your way on day. Bob
March 3, 2001 Q. Dear Bob the Plumber, When I flush the toilet it growls really loud. How can I fix that? .Charles, Elk City, OR A. Dear Charles, I suggest you rent a "San-i-can". You don't have to flush them. But seriously, you probably have too much water pressure coming into the toilet tank. The simplest thing to do is throttle-down the supply valve to the toilet. That's on the wall on the left-hand-side as you face the toilet, 6" up from the floor (sometimes its on the floor.) Just turn it clockwise a little bit until it stops growling. Or shoot it! Bob the Plumber |
| Feb 29, 2001 Q. Dear Bob, I don't get much water out of my bathroom faucet. Sometimes it just trickles. I've got a lot of water in the kitchen faucet, and every where else. Do I need a new faucet? Marilyn, Deep River, CT. A. Where do you brush your teeth then, Marilyn, in the toilet? Check your Aerator! On the end of the faucet there is a removable attachment that keeps the water from splashing in the sink and filters the water. That's the aerator. Turn it clockwise (as you're looking down on it) to unscrew it. The filter is probably clogged with particles. Carefully tap the aerator on the sink and wash out the particles. Be careful not to lose the parts (washer, screen, and water restrictor.) Then, screw it back on. Let me know if that helped? Bob the Plumber |
| February 15, 2001 Q. Dear bobtheplumber.com How can I get my husband and 3 sons to stop wetting the floor around the toilet. They seem to always be in a hurry and have a very poor aim. I'm tired of wiping up urine. Susan, Portland, OR A. Dear Susan, I know this isn't in the Book of Plumbing but do as my wife did to me. Tell them to SIT, when they have to go. Bob the Plumber |
